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the sweet scoop
the sweet scoop
A tiny, unassuming kitchen attached to a downtown Brooklyn grocery isn’t the typical location for a three Michelin-starred restaurant. Yet, Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare continues to break the culinary mold. Since opening in late 2010, snagging one of the eighteen seats at this exclusive supper club has become one of the city’s most coveted reservations. If you happen to be lucky (or mighty persistent) enough to attend a nightly dinner seating, you’ll enter an intimate room filled by a stainless steel U-shaped communal table facing hanging copper pots and a state-of-the-art open kitchen.
Focusing on seasonal ingredients, chef Cesar Ramirez and staff gracefully prepare a well-paced procession of 18-20 small plates, varying daily based on produce availability. Flavorful amuses awakened my taste buds, such as succulent king crab meat wrapped in delicate shredded phyllo atop chilled cucumber dill yogurt, and a cube of flaky Japanese fluke that arrived under a sliver of tart pickled daikon. After about a dozen singular bites (the majority fish-based), seven larger courses followed, including a lightly seasoned rouget over Japanese risotto in foamy saffron bouillabaisse and the most beautifully cooked duck I’ve ever had—tender with thinly fat-laden crispy skin, balanced by earthy chanterelles and silky miso purée. Succeeding an onslaught of savory, I welcomed a creamy fromage blanc sorbet melting into a pool of sweet cherries laced with yuzu rind.
No detail went overlooked, down to the attentive service and exquisite handmade china collection. With a BYO policy, don’t forget your favorite bottle (no corkage fee) and be prepared to eat whatever’s put in front of you—the chef’s not known for customizing the menu. Worth the price and hassle to get in, this truly is a dining experience of a lifetime.